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Hardanger Embroidery and Other Novelties in Lenten Fancy Work
This is the first article in March of the School for Housewives 1904 series published on Mar 6, 1904, and is a very short article on embroidery.
School for Housewives – Hardanger Embroidery and Other Novelties in Lenten Fancy Work
The coming of Lent is often a single for the introduction of some novelty in fancy work, and the needlewoman has no cause to be disappointed in the Lenten output this year.
She can choose among the recently brought out Hardanger and the many attracting forms of cross-stitch, which, according to best authorities, “will be everything” for the next six months.
The Hardanger, a Swedish embroidery, is available for many kinds of fancy articles. Table covers, sofa pillows, bureau boxes are all being carried out in it.
Although hailing in modern times from Sweden, the Hardanger pattern was originally Persian. Delicate Oriental intricacies are perfectly recognizable if the motif is closely studied for a moment.
The vogue of cross-stitch has revived the old-time canvas backgrounds, which are all propitious for work of this kind. Everything, down to the smallest sachets and glove cases, is being built upon these canvases.
A couple of new sachets made in this style are shown in the illustration.
The Lenten seer will also be interested in the pair of pretty work bags shown for her benefit. Cretonne is a good material for these – and a cheap one.
For utility work, if time can’t be spared for frivolities, I would suggest one of the little crocheted sweaters represented here.
It would be hard to name a more serviceable garment than this, especially at the present time of year.
Coats will soon be coming off, and when they do, such a jacket will be found about the handiest thing imaginable.
The two models illustrated are “latest out” in their line. One of them is the Norfolk effect; the other has a nautical finish.
Marion Harland
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An Afternoon “At Home”
This is the first article in March of the School for Housewives 1905 series published on Mar 5, 1905, and is an interesting article about receiving visitors at home. I can only imagine the sorts of wonderfully decorated calling cards ladies in fancy homes would leave behind.
School for Housewives – An Afternoon “At Home”
If your time is worth anything, and you have any system with regard to exercise in the open air and other duties, you will find an “at home” day an economical measure. It is, moreover, a convenience to those who really wish to see and talk with you when they call, since they are thus assured that they will find you “in.” Lastly, it is a neat method of purging your visiting list of acquaintances who would rather be represented by printed pasteboard than by their persons.
Let your friends know that you stay at home one afternoon or evening, or both, of every week during a term of months for the express purpose of receiving them. The fact is a compliment in itself.
Write out the names of those you wish to hold upon your “calling list” and enclose to each in a small envelope your visiting card, engraved after this fashion:
MRS. JOHN BLANK,
103 W. TEMPLETON PLACE.
Tuesdays in Mach and April.
From 4 to 7 p.m.
Or “Tuesday afternoons in March.” Or “Tuesday afternoons and evenings in March and April,” as may suit your convenience. Send out cards at least one week before the date of the first “day.”
Upon the afternoons designated have your drawing room in dainty order, with a few flowers set here and there to add an air of modest festivity and of hospitable expectation. If your dining room adjoin the parlor, set out your refreshments there. If, as often happens, your apartments offer two reception rooms, one larger than the other, fit up the inner and smaller of the two as a tea room.
Tea is the feature of the preparations made for the physical refreshment of your guests. I hope you know how to make it.
First, and above all, have the water boiling. Not “just off the boil,” not already boiled, but actually boiling.
The only safe and the most convenient way is to make your tea on the table. To this end provide yourself with a brass, copper, or silver kettle, heated by a small spirit lamp. Pretty brass kettles range in price from $3.50 to $23. Some of them rest on a standard on the table, while others depend from a high crane set on the floor at the pourer’s right hand. These cranes are of iron, fashioned usually in the shape of the figure 5, and are ‘the thing’ for 5 o’clock tea.
Fill your kettle with hot water and light the lamp. Put into the teapot the requisite quantity of tea; when the water boils pour enough on the leaves to cover them, and put the kettle again over the lighted wick. Cover the teapot closely. At the end of five minutes the “steeping” process will be completed, and you may fill the pot with the still boiling water. After it has stood a minute longer the delicious drink is ready to be enjoyed.
One of the requisites in a good cup of tea is to have it very hot. This object should not be attained by allowing the pot to stand on the side of the range, or, after the manner of our grandmothers, on the hob, where it is almost sure to stew and be ruined, but by covering it while on the table with a “cosy.”
To make a cosy, cut two semi-circles of some thick, rich colored material, such as tricot, felt, plush, or velvet, and join there at the top and sides. Cut two half circles a little smaller than the others, of very heavy wadding, and still another pair of satin or sateen for the lining. Fit the wadding inside of this and quilt or tack the wadding to the lining to prevent its slipping. The seams at the sides and bottom should be finished with a silk cord fastened in loops at the tops and corners. When finished, the whole fits over the teapot lie a snug cap.
Do not make a toil of the weekly entertainment of your friends. Cover the table with a pretty white cloth, and arrange thereupon your choicest china and silver plates, cake basket and tea equipage, a pile of napkins, a bon-bon dish and two plates for sandwiches.
Marion Harland
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The Advantage That Is to Be Gained by Arising Fifteen Minutes Earlier in the Morning
This is the first article in March of the School for Housewives 1902 series published on Mar 2, 1902, and is a short article on the benefits of getting up earlier in the morning.
School for Housewives – The Advantage That Is to Be Gained by Arising Fifteen Minutes Earlier in the Morning
Up in the morning’s early light.
Up in the morning early!
This was the strain of the old-fashioned ditty-maker. There are still writers of “goody” books and works on hygiene who extol the morning mood. According to them, the whole human machine is then at its best. The head is clear, the stomach is vigorous, the spirits are buoyant, life is a joy.
In reality – the reality of the everyday life of respectable people who have not ??? long as the wine or anything else ever night – the hard pull of the day is at the beginning.
A young man of education and breeding who lives in bachelor chambers with three other “good fellows” confesses that, while the 7 o’clock dinner hour is always full of cheer and good-will, the four friends seldom exchange a syllable at the breakfast table beyond a brief salutation at entering the room, and a curt “good-day” in separating to their various places of business.
“Thanks to this sensible silence, we have lived together three years without quarrelling.” He wound up the story by saying “Every man is a brute until he has had his morning coffee.”
A celebrated Judge left upon record the saying that “No man should be hanged for a murder committed before breakfast.”
A brilliant woman summed up the popular judgment on the subject, in an after luncheon speech before other literary women, in the assertion that “the human machine needs to be wound up and lubricated and regulated by bath and breakfast before it is fit to work with other machines, or, indeed, to go at all. Breakfast, partaken of in the company of one’s nearest and dearest, is a blunder of modern civilization. It is an ordeal over which each should mourn apart.”
Much of this is talk, and some of it is temper. It is not easy for one to get full command of oneself before the relaxed nerves are braced by tea or coffee and the long empty stomach is brought up to concert pitch by food. If we have slept too heavily we are stupid; if too little, irritable.
Nor is it easy to return a smooth answer to a capricious customer, or to smile attentively upon a social bore, or to refrain from snubbing the lounger in your office or drawing room who thinks your time no more valuable than his own, r to return blessing for railing in a business alteration.
We do daily each, if not all, of these things, because it is polite and politic and Christian to do them. Where principle or interest is involved we tread personal prejudice under foot. The man who gulps down his coffee in grim silence and says never a word between his downsitting and his uprising to and from the penitential feast, nods jovially to his neighbors in the street car, throws a cheerful “Hello!” to the boy who sells him his morning paper, and lifts his hat with a bright smile to the woman he meets at the corner. He would act in like manner if these encounters took place before, instead of after, his breakfast. It would be a part of the decent and orderly behavior befitting every gentleman.
I admit that the American’s first meal of the crude day, with the accompaniment of the rush for car, or boat, or train, that turns out – or in – dyspeptics by the hundred thousand yearly, is not conducive to domestic happiness or the preservation of table etiquette. The householder, devouring porridge, two cups of scalding coffee, rolls, steak ad fried potatoes, at discretion, with one eye on the clock and both feet braced to jump for the station he knows is imminent, is in the first or fortieth stage of what a witty essayist diagnoses as “Americanitis.” His children’s railroad speed of deglutition and their scurry for school are along the same lines of discomfort and disease.
Upon the mother’s hands and head rests the responsibility of “Getting them off for the day,” a battle renewed with each morning, until she “fairly loathes the name and thought of breakfast.”
The remedy for the domestic disgrace – for it is nothing if not that – is simple that I have little hope it will be respected, much less accepted.
It is “Get up fifteen minutes earlier in the morning.”
If you rise usually at 7, have the hot water and cleaned boots brought to the chamber door at a quarter before 7, and get up when you are called. A brisk bath and a smart rubbing with a crash towel, preceded by fifty gymnastic strokes, such as arm-swinging and general flexing of the muscles, twenty-five deep breaths that pump the morning air down to the bottomest well of your lungs and clear the respiratory passages of effete matter lodged there during the night, will set your body in good working order.
Force yourself to speak pleasantly if you cannot at once bring your spirits up to the right level. Study to be a man, or a woman, although breakfastless. To be thrown in the first round of the day by the sluggish flesh and the devil of ill-humor, before the world has a chance to grapple with you, is cowardly and sinful.
It is my persuasion that seven-tenths of the twaddle over the horrors of the family breakfast are affectation and indolence. Breakfasting in bed is an imported fashion, and, to my notion, is not a clean practice. The tray brought to an unaired room, a tumbled bed and an unwashed body looks well in French engravings, but is a solecism in an age of hygienic principles, much ventilation and matutional bath. The inability to be in charity with one’s fellow mortals, to smile genially and to speak gently before the world is well started upon its diurnal swing and the complainant’s physical system is toned and tuned and oiled by eating is degrading in itself. The confession of it is puerile.
Marion Harland
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China Flower Holders Table Trimming
This is the fourth article in February of the School for Housewives 1904 series published on Feb 28, 1904, and is a very short article on dressing tables with china flower holders.
School for Housewives – China Flower Holders Table Trimming
The hostess who likes to entertain informally and often will welcome the little table centrepieces in china which the shops are offering of late.
Thanks to these, it is now possible to arrange the flowers for a luncheon or little dinner in fives minutes’ time.
When a number of entertainments are given during a single season, anything that lightens the labor of preparation without detracting from the daintiness of the feast is of real interest.
This is especially true of hospitably inclined households where but one maid is kept.
Almost any variety of flowers can be suited in these new dishes. There are tall effects designed for chrysanthemums, iris or American Beauties; vases of moderate depth for carnations, narcissus and their ilk, while shallow basins, having just the necessary depth, suggest a decoration of violets or lilies of the valley.
Many of the new ornaments include human figures, those, for example, of nymphs, shepherdesses, fauns and children.
Sometimes the figures support baskets, basins or vases, which form the flower holders.
Other models are made up of blossoms, rocks and different natural objects, without human figures of any kind.
The illustrations show a number of the new dishes appropriately filled.
An especially pretty idea illustrated is that of the boutonniere centrepiece, to which many of the new ornaments lend themselves especially well.
A number of little bouquets, intended for distribution among the guests, are attached to strands of ribbon, and arranged in the dish. The ribbons fall over the sides, and escape contact with the water. At the conclusion of the feast each member of the party pulls a ribbon and obtains a bouquet.
Marion Harland
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The Easiest Table Decorations to Make
This is the fourth article in February of the School for Housewives 1905 series published on Feb 26, 1905, and is a short article on table decor.
School for Housewives – The Easiest Table Decorations to Make
No matter at what season of the year you elect to give a luncheon, roses are always to be had, and trim a table in the prettiest and most varied of ways.
A white luncheon may be given, with the whitest of roses gracing the centre, or those with just the merest touch of shell-pink tinting them. Or if pink is to be the color, a “wealth of exquisite blossoms come in the softest shades of pink; white for a red luncheon come buds and blossoms that make the cheeriest of decorations.
In June rose-luncheons are really the only seasonable ones to give; and then you might give a rose-luncheon every few days and have it different, using tiny June roses one day, wild roses another, and moss-roses, tea-roses, fragrant yellow briar-roses, and the delicate old-fashioned tea-roses – gathered from your own flower-plot – for the different days.
If expense doesn’t have to be considered, china with rose-patterns is extremely effective; and, as it snows skillful shading and coloring, it blends with almost any color of roses.
White is used almost entirely for table-linen – lace sets being highest in favor; but occasionally you see a rose-luncheon with a centrepiece embroidered with roses in their natural color.
A pretty decoration of roses – like that illustrated – was a central vase of cut glass (in the fashionable Colonial pattern) filled with pink roses and ferns.
LUNCHEON FOR SIX
The luncheon was for six, and set at intervals around the table were six little vases, each with its roses and ferns. At each place was laid a rose, apparently dropped carelessly there.
Candlesticks add greatly to the genera effect of a table, and a great many women get shades and candles of three or four colors, changing them according to the color of the luncheon they are giving.
Pink shades make, perhaps, the softest, most becoming light; red and green shades the most striking, but both red and green should be set closest to the centre, so that their direct light may not fall on the guests seated. Both lights are too strong to be becoming if they are close.
American Beauties make a most imposing luncheon. One was given with a tall vase full of the long-stemmed beauties for a centrepiece, wile from the base, raying out to each place, was a rose – the blossom coming just to the “stay-plate,” or beside it. The effect was stunning, and after the luncheon the hostess picked up the one nearest her, and every guest followed suit.
Pink roses in the centre, with bunches of great, single violets at each lace – each bunch having its long violet pin struck through the stems – make a pretty color-scheme that is accentuated when all the guests pin the violets on, before the first course is served.
For a spring luncheon, daffodils and violets are charming; and daffodils and mignonette the most spring-like combination imaginable.
Marion Harland
My Knitting Work and the Day Dreams That It Calls to Mind – A Peaceful Reverie
This is the second written article in February of the School for Housewives 1902 series published on Feb 23, 1902, and is a longer article on managing the household.
School for Housewives – My Knitting Work and the Day Dreams That It Calls to Mind – A Peaceful Reverie
Just now it is a couvre-pied of shaded crimson, a gift for a dear old friend who, having everything that money can buy, will appreciate the tender memories of a forty years’ intimacy wrought into the warm-colored web. Her initials are to be embroidered on the central strip as a sure seal to set upon the sweet assurance that it was designed for her, her only. If the gift will have its story for her it has a hundred stories for me. Dickens tells us how the demoniacal Madame Defarge knit the names of the victims proscribed by the Republic into the work that went with her to the shop, the market place and the guillotine. A series of home-pictures glows under my eyes as I unfold, one after another, of the strips that will presently be crocheted together with rope-silk, after which the rug will be heavily fringed with shaded wools and silks. The setting and background of all are the same. The long, low library, lined with books; the rich glow of firelight and lamp, and on the other side of a Chippendale table that once belonged to Martha Washington, the reader whose well-modulated tones have given me within six months Lecky’s “Map of Life,” Justin McCarthy’s “Reminiscences” and “History of Our Own Times.” Just now we are deep in his “Four Georges.” It is a habit that goes well with the soothing continuity of knitting-work, to improve our acquaintance with out chosen author for weeks together. After many evenings of this close communion, we know him forever. My couvre-pied is better than a chronological table to me, an album of “snap-pictures,” visible to me alone. I could indicate the vey inch that grew into being under my fingers while Bradlaugh’s six months’ struggle to take the oath of membership was in telling, and the long, bright scroll on which is stamped in (to others) invisible characters the pathetic lingering of Queen Caroline’s last hours.
SOLVING A STOCKING’S MYSTERY
I learned to knit golf stockings while on the Scheldt, while our steamer was becalmed by the stillest, stickiest, thickest fog that has visited Holland in a century. We lay “As idle as a painted ship, Upon a painted ocean.” for three mortal days and nights, our dreads of famine imperfectly allayed by the purser’s assurance that we were victualed for a fortnight. An English matron, fair of face, ample of figure and low-voiced, was knitting golf stockings for her university son, and cordially offered patterns, wools and needles to me. Being English, she did not see the faint humor of the “situation” when I remarked that the transatlantic athlete would wear the stocking I had begun (if we ever saw land again) was 6 feet 2½ in his stockings, and that I expected to finish one pair before we got to Antwerp. I sent to London from Florence for pattern book and materials, and wrought six pairs than winter. They are written all over with scenes from “Romola,” “The Makers of Venice,” “The Makers of Florence,” Jamieson’s “Legendary Art” and Villari’s “Savonarola.” As they stride past me on bleak winter days, or when November stubble is russet brown. I have sometimes a queer constriction of heart and throat that means nostalgia. I could declare that I smell the violets which overflowed our table from October to March, and the roses so riotously abundant that black-eyed Lelinda strewed my chamber floor two inches deep with the damp petals to lay the dust before sweeping. Some woman, Mrs. Caroline Lee Hentz, I think, once wrote a poem to her knitting work – “My Companionable Kitting Work” the called it in her verse. Mine is solace, and sedative, gentle diversion, and effective guard against ennui and impatience, the confidante of restless discontents and of unspoken dreams. Forty-odd years ago I was guilty of the vanity – pardonable surely in a girl who prided herself upon making all her presents – of displaying the results months of happy occupation that never approximated toil to “a superior woman.” She praised judiciously and satisfactorily, if more gravely, than I had expected, and when the last article had been inspected laid her hand upon my shoulder impressively: “Dear child, do you know what I have been thinking of while this display was going on? That by rights all these things should be dyed as red as blood – the blood of murdered time!” Stunned as I was, I had the presence of mind to offer a word of extenuation, as I would have raised an arm to ward off a blow. “But I have done it all in the gaps left by other things – real duties, you know. I began them more than a year ago. They have been what grandmamma called ‘holding pieces.’ If I had been busy with them I should have been doing nothing in the ‘betweenities.’ When I was hearing my little sister’s lessons, and waiting for the rest to come in to prayers or meals, and chatting with girl callers, and entertaining father and the boys in the evening, and in the long summer days in the country, when it was too hot to practice or to write or study. I have always had a bit of work in my basket that I could catch up at any minute. I can’t feel that I have murdered time. I have only used up odd quarter and half hours instead of keeping my hands folded.” She pursed her lips and shook her had. “The ‘betweenities,’ as you call them, might have been filled with better things, my love. But I was not born ??? the world right. Each of us must account for herself for the talents committed to her. Only – the napkin is a napkin even when covered with the finest of needlework and edged with lace!” I hope – and I try to believe now – that she meant well. She bruised my feelings terribly at the time, and left a raw place on my conscience that was long in healing. As I gained in life’s experiences I worked my way out of the fog she had shed about my perceptions of good and evil, and set up for myself a theory as to “fancy-work” utterly opposed to my mentor’s, and, to my apprehension, quite as dignified.
A LABOR OF LOVE
Because it has a dignity of its own to keep up, I object to the compound word just used. The dainty devices that have grown under women’s otherwise idle fingers for a thousand generations merit a nobler classification. I do not speak of professional tasks done for money. That is labor. As soon as the work element informs the needles or crochet and netting hook, the graceful play ceases to be recreation and a benefaction. She who appoints for herself a certain number of rounds or a given space to be covered within a set time at once loses the best good of her diversion. But for her “holding piece” many a woman would have gone mad under the pressure of sorrow, the gnawing worry of sordid cares, the racking of suspense. Fancy-work lightens dark days and infuses poetry into the commonplace that but for this “maybe” would be one inexorable “must do.” Ah, the stories that are tragedies, stitched into the holding pieces bequeathed to us by our grandmothers and maiden great-aunts; the comedies, love-stories and poetry laughed and cried over and lived, while we fill in the blessed “betweenities” without which life would be all unparagraphed prose! Men and moralists who decry fancy-work as frippery and wasted time are ignorant of the sedative properties it possesses, so long – upon this I insist – as it is not allowed to degenerate into a task. The flash of the kneedle, the swish of the silk, the click of the knitter’s slender steels, the dart of the crocket hook in and out of the gossamer web it is weaving – symbolize mental and spiritual conductors. They carry off and dissipate harmlessly electric charges from nerves and heart. To secure similar ends our husbands smoke and play billiards, and – if rustic – whittle. Better a plethora of golf stockings, slippers and afghans than nicotine and shavings.
Marion Harland
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